38 Grand Seiko Watches

A Grand History of Japanese Watchmaking

The birth of Grand Seiko in 1960 did not just happen overnight. It was the culmination of years of innovation and development, which began through Kintaro Hattori’s initiatives in the 1890s, who was the founder of Seiko watches. The idea first came about as a means of challenging the technological supremacy of the Swiss watchmaking industry. Seiko watches used to be made by two subsidiaries who competed two produce the best watches: Daini Seikosha Co. Ltd and the Suwa Seikosha Co. In order to provide competition to Swiss Horology, Daini Seikosha and Suwa Seikosha pooled some of their finest watchmakers to produce the first Grand Seiko watch in 1960. This was manufactured by Suwa Seikosha, and these first generation watches from Grand Seiko were the first chronometer graded wristwatches ever produced in the country of Japan.

The two pioneering models that laid the groundwork for Grand Seiko were Lord Marvel (1958) and Crown (1959). While the former was minimalist and robust and served as Seiko’s flagship watch, the latter had a more stylish profile and spoke of Seiko’s prowess in exterior design and movement manufacture. 

The second-generation Grand Seiko watches were released in 1964, with this brand now operating as a separate entity under the parent company, Seiko. This 1964 Grand Seiko Self- Dater was the first watch from the brand having the calendar function. Grand Seiko’s pursuit for beauty and aesthetics led to creating the ultimate Grand Seiko style in 1967 - a revolutionary watch flaunting the signature distortion-free case and bezel resplendent with Zaratsu polishing. The quest for precision continued, and the following years witnessed a series of highly accurate mechanical movements that challenged the most stringent global standards. In 1969, the brand took its precision watchmaking a step ahead to create the world’s first quartz wristwatch, the Quartz Astron. In the same year, Seiko made the world’s first automatic day date chronograph to match the highest level of technical proficiency that sports timekeeping demands. 

Grand Seiko introduced its next generation of mechanical calibres in the 1990s. A breakthrough in the Grand Seiko history came in 1999 when the world’s first Spring Drive watch was born. Keeping pace with changing times, Grand Seiko leveraged its superior craftsmanship and in-house technology to launch the highly precise 10 beat movement wristwatches in 2004. The latest innovation is the Spring Drive watch, launched in 2016, a masterpiece with a calibre offering 8-day power reserve.

Designs That Reflect the Japanese Sense of Beauty

The introduction of the Grand Seiko Style in 1967 was only the beginning of a slew of watch designs embodying the unique Japanese idea of beauty. Even though Grand Seiko models evolved with constantly changing trends, every timepiece remains true to the lucid and refined design defined by the features of the first Grand Seiko. The iconic design manifests purity, simplicity, practicality, beauty, precision, legibility, and ease of use with a harmonious blend of form and function. Every detail of a Grand Seiko Style watch exhibits a perfect play of light and shadow, with even the smallest ray of light creating a unique appeal. 

The Japanese aesthetic of light, shadow, and absolute flatness reflects in the nine enduring elements of the Grand Seiko Style. The double-width index at 12 o’clock, multifaceted rectangular markers, curved sideline, highly polished bezel, multifaceted hour and minute hands, highly-polished planes and two-dimensional surface, flat dial, half recessed crown, and the reverse slanted bezel wall and case side appeal to watch connoisseurs from around the world. 

In-House Movements and Collections

The home of Grand Seiko’s mechanical watches is The Grand Seiko Studio Shizukuishi, and that of the quartz and Spring Drive watches is The Shinshu Watch Studio. While the mechanical movements (Calibre 9S) represent the sharp precision of time, the Spring Drive movement (Calibre 9R) combines the best of electronic and mechanical watchmaking to redefine the seamless course of time. The Calibre 9F reinvents quartz watchmaking to deliver greater performance and higher durability. 

The long-drawn affinity of the island country with nature echoes in every Grand Seiko timepiece. The diverse natural landscapes of Japan are a source of inspiration to Grand Seiko, bestowing its dial designs with individuality, elegance, and natural beauty. Currently, Grand Seiko features four distinct wristwatch lines - the Masterpiece, Elegance, Heritage, and Sports Collections. 

The illustrious history of Grand Seiko is a testimony of its loyalty to time that has inspired generations to pursue precision and excellence in the delicate art of watchmaking. Grand Seiko continues to challenge the conventions of horology through the spirit and mastery of artistry.